Between August 1-5, 2022, my 11 year old son and I had the opportunity to spend the week in Rockport, Maine. He was performing with the Bay Chamber Music Schools Envision Program, culminating in a concert on Friday, Aug. 5. Thomas spent between 9-4 each day practicing a couple of pieces and since it took an hour and a half each way, I decided to just hang around town each day rather than travelling back and forth and I sure am glad I did....at least for the most part.
My first day, or rather I should say my first hour, was spent enjoying the scenery and walks around town as soon as I could find my first cup of coffee. That simple "first step" seemed an easy one until I found it to be the toughest step of all, but more on that in a minute.
Rockport, Maine should be considered a stop over when visiting this neck of the woods in Maine because there is only absolutely nothing to do in Rockport, for adults and children, which is a wicked shame. I found this depressing observation out very soon after walking around. BUT......there were several saving graces that has now changed my mind. The first was a little place called Graffam Brothers Seafood.
I will tell you much more in short, but first I want to mention the people of Rockport.
I felt as though I was in an episode of the Twilight Zone...honestly! From the moment I turned to walk down the street after seeing Thomas off for the day, the greetings began amongst the seagulls cries. "Good morning", "Howdy" "Hi there" and so many variations of a mornings salutation were immediately offered.....AND EACH WITH A SMILE!!!. Of course being the Yankee I am, I replied in kind, both audibly and with a returning smile.
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| Graffam Bros. fish case |
Well, maybe it was the fact that I was a stranger. Maybe I just caught everyone on a clear, warm and beautiful Monday morning. Nope, this happened every single minute I was walking around town, no matter what part of town. In fact, at least once a day as I was leisurely strolling about town, a person would actually engage in conversation if I asked about something. For example, one day I asked an elderly lady how far down the road Camden was and after telling me, she asked "Do you have a minute?" Of course I did! She began her 30 minute chat with her very first home purchase some 50 years earlier and ended with he husband passing 2 years before. No, although she may have been lonely, she was extending on a conversation I had begun with her about how beautiful the community was and how friendly the folks were in Rockport. She had honored her hometown with pride and I was happy to spend some time with her.
I would like to mention just one more lady and her companion that I 'bumped into' while strolling as well, although I could go on and on. As I continued walking toward Camden to see if I could break up my day a little with some shopping, I noticed some beautiful flowering shrubs to my right and a lady tending to them. (I am going to shorten this so you will continue reading without getting bored.) She was a learned lady named Barbara and her companion Bob. Not only had I inquired about her flora but she began schooling me on how to care for, tend to these plants as well as her lifes' educational background. Too long to list here, she was a gem to talk to and Bob was just as cordial to me as well, never letting his facial expression offer anything other than a smile and genuine, small town graciousness. The both were such that I made it a staple to walk by their home every morning on the way to Camden and early afternoon coming from Camden. In fact, they have emailed me since with pictures of their plants as well as the names of them so that I can make some informed decisions here at my home. I look forward to running into both Barbara and Bob each time we visit Rockport and they too, reflect the laid back, productive and cordial, salty atmosphere of this town. Thank you folks!
The very first morning, my first job was to find a cup of coffee. One would think this would be easy but noooooo......There was not one place in this town to find a cup of coffee to start the day. Ordinarily this would have set the tone, but the saving grace was the greetings from everyone around. Everyone told me to walk to Camden if I needed one, which was "only a couple miles down the road". The walking did not bother me one bit. In fact, I had a lot of time on my hands anyway, so off to Camden I went. After rounding the corner where the new library was(a place where I spent a considerable amount of time as well) I spied a seafood market on my left by the name of Graffam Bros. Seafood.
Nothing about coffee in their windows but it couldn't hurt to try. I walked in the front door and of course was immediately greeted by good mornings from patrons and employees. But more importantly, as I looked to my left, it was like that movie moment where the music accentuates a glorious event. There they were, 6 pump cannisters with different coffees in each. A sign next to it stating a $1.25 price.
Walking over I saw some tables just beckoning me to sit down, grab a paper and relax. It reminded me so much of my parents restaurants.
The first encounter I had with a member of the staff was a young transplant from another state in the midwest by the name of Harrison. I new he was a transplant because of our conversation we had when I walked up to the counter.
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| Finnan Haddie |
He was a genuinely nice man who, along with everyone else at Graffam Brothers, greeted customers not only with a natural smile(as opposed to a forced one you often see so early in the morning) but with a willingness to engage with a customer, regardless of how busy he was.
A true gem to Graffams and the community. He stepped out from behind the counter to let me know the different types of coffee and the flavor profiles of all six flavors.
I told him I wanted a coffee that my spoon could stand straight up in...in other words STRONG! Although he told me about the intenseness of one of Carrabassett's coffee, he nudged me toward Jamaican Me Crazy...which was a great choice.
For the next couple of days, I made it a priority to stop here for my morning coffee, with Thursday morning being my most memorable coffee breaks. I decided to walk around this "shop" and see what else they had for sale. I was honestly blown a way! Not only did they have a fresh seafood case(two of them in fact)but the prices of the fish, mollusks, shellfish and seafood were honestly outstanding.
I again saw Harrison behind the counter and after exchanging greetings again(with the same gratuitousness as the first time I might add)I asked to speak with the manager on duty. After just a minute, a man came up to me, offered his hand in introduction and said he was Leni. I introduced myself as well and he was actually the owner. After a few minutes of banter, he walked with me around his place as I asked him questions about items in his freezer, fish case and dry goods. Now the entire time, he was carrying his money bag, obviously on his way out the door to make his morning deposit, but he still took the time to answer each of my questions and extend the same type of cordiality his employee extended.
Why did I need to ask him anything? Let me just say I was truly feeling the Yankee blood and the New England food historian part of me coming out. He had finnan haddie in 3-4 pound filets for sale. Other than a great friend and family member of mine in Orono who owns the Orono IGA, by the name of Bob Craft, Leni's store was the only other place I found this childhood(and true New England)favorite. On top of that, he carried salted cod. Not many of you will be familiar with this true Yankee original, but there was a time when families had cod balls or cod cakes or simply salted cod simmered in milk for a weekends meal. And Graffam Bros. had this centuries old staple in a packaging that instantly brought to mind the 1800s. It was sold in real wooden boxes!
He also carried probably the best chowder I have had in a long time, with the prices reflecting pre-supply chain and inflation levels. And his prices were the same across the board. In fact, take a look at his menu board! He introduced me to one of his cooks, his daughter. He introduced me to another worker, again another daughter. Both just as pleasant as everyone else at Graffams. His dry goods section also reflected a small New England community with local fudge(CHEAP I might add)Bar Harbor Foods products(of which I am intimately knowledgeable of) and a range of Swedish products, including a cracker that easily takes place of the now defunct Crown Pilots for our chowdah.
I truly could go on and on about this place but will conclude by saying that directly across the street was Graffam Bros. eat outside "picnic" area. I say picnic because that is exactly how I noticed everyne enjoying themselves after getting there food from the shack. No cell phones or any distraction, just families sitting on picnic tables enjoying Graffam Bros. fare. Kudos to you folks for making an out of towner feel at home from your initial greeting to "See you tomorrow".
I need to give a shout out to Brother Shuckers as well. When Thomas and his musical peers had their lunch down at the shore every day, I happened to stop in at this nondescript food trailer. I immediately saw their chalkboard and in particular the Pub Dog. I grilled hotdog with grilled onions. I asked the owner what the onions were seasoned with, if anything at all. He said only Maple Pepper. I had never heard of it but it sure sounded like a perfect combination. I ordered it while Thomas was playing with his black lab. It was actually the BEST hot dog I have ever EVER had. Kudos to you as well brother Shucker! (And by the way, his menu consisted of shucked oyster......and clams. Something you don't see often. I have forgotten other items but suffice it to say, it was a varied menu and very worthy of my business again and again.....)
Thomases week at the Bay Chamber Music school was just as enjoyable to him. He met some wonderful friends, of which two of them wanted to stay in touch until they see him again next year. Both Josie and Sophie Davis(two of the violin teachers at the school)were a perfect match to not only handle the 20 or so children that attended but were an inspiration to the future musicianship of each.
To round off my experience in Rockport?? It was a far cry from the sky high prices in Camden, a huge leap from any culinary mecca found in large cities and if I had known there was a Reny's just around the corner from downtown the first day I was there, there would have not been any reason to walk all the way to Camden each day.
It was the most friendliest town I have ever visited...anywhere!
